Everything You Need to Know About Dermal Fillers
- Skincentive

- Jun 26
- 5 min read
Updated: Sep 3
The Different Types of Dermal Fillers
Not all fillers are created equal. They differ in composition, how they work, and their longevity. Here are the most common types you'll encounter:
Hyaluronic Acid (HA) Fillers
These are by far the most popular and widely used fillers. Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in our skin that attracts and holds water, providing hydration and volume.
How They Work: HA fillers, such as Juvederm, Restylane, Ouye, Revolax, and Teosyal, are gel-like substances that instantly plump the skin. They fill in wrinkles, folds, and restore lost volume.
Longevity: HA fillers typically last between 6 to 18 months. This varies by product, area treated, and individual metabolism. Areas with more movement, like the lips, may need frequent touch-ups.
Dissolvability: A significant advantage of HA fillers is that they are dissolvable. An enzyme called hyaluronidase can be injected to break down hyaluronic acid. This effectively reverses the effects if needed, offering a crucial safety net for patients and practitioners alike.
Calcium Hydroxylapatite (CaHA) Fillers
Best known by the brand name Radiesse, CaHA fillers comprise microscopic calcium microspheres suspended in gel.
How They Work: CaHA fillers provide immediate volume and lift, similar to HA fillers. However, their unique benefit is stimulating the body's natural collagen production over time. This leads to longer-lasting results.
Longevity: Results with CaHA fillers last around 12 to 18 months due to their biostimulatory effect.
Dissolvability: Unlike HA fillers, CaHA fillers cannot be dissolved with an enzyme. This is an important consideration when choosing this type.
Poly-L-lactic Acid (PLLA) Fillers
The most well-known PLLA filler is Sculptra. This synthetic, biodegradable substance has been used in medical applications for decades.
How They Work: PLLA fillers are ‘collagen stimulators.’ Instead of providing immediate volume, they work gradually by stimulating the body’s own collagen production. This results in subtle improvement in skin thickness and volume over several months. Multiple treatment sessions are typically required.
Longevity: PLLA fillers offer some of the longest-lasting results, often enduring for up to 2 years or more.
Dissolvability: Similar to CaHA fillers, PLLA fillers cannot be dissolved once injected.
Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) Fillers
Bellafill is a prominent example of a PMMA filler.
How They Work: PMMA fillers contain microspheres that are not absorbed by the body. These microspheres provide permanent scaffolding for collagen production.
Longevity: PMMA fillers are considered semi-permanent to permanent, with results lasting up to 5 years or more.
Dissolvability: PMMA fillers cannot be dissolved. Due to their permanent nature, they require careful consideration and an experienced injector.
The Unintended Longevity
Cross-Linking Agents and the Drive for Pure Fillers
For hyaluronic acid fillers to last longer and resist rapid breakdown by the body’s natural enzymes, they undergo a process called cross-linking. This involves chemically bonding the individual HA chains together to form a more stable gel. The most common cross-linking agent used is 1,4-Butanediol Diglycidyl Ether (BDDE).
Traditionally, the degree of cross-linking directly influenced the filler’s viscosity and longevity. Recently, however, many individuals have reported their HA fillers, expected to last 6-18 months, are lasting significantly longer—sometimes even years.
While this prolonged persistence might seem beneficial, it can lead to undesirable outcomes. Over time, highly cross-linked fillers can:
Migration: The filler can shift from its original injection site, creating a misplacement that looks unnatural or distorted.
Unsightly Results: Persistent, misplaced filler can result in lumps, bumps, or an overall ‘puffy’ or ‘overfilled’ look that detracts from the desired aesthetic.
Immune Reactions: Although HA is naturally occurring, modification with BDDE can alter its structure. This might lead the body to perceive it as foreign. Consequently, immune responses may occur, including delayed hypersensitivity reactions, inflammatory nodules, and granulomas, which can appear weeks or months after injection.
The above phenomenon has driven a shift in filler development, with companies focusing on what they term ‘purer fillers’ or ‘BDDE-free’ hyaluronic acid products. The objective is to create fillers that provide predictable longevity and integrate seamlessly with the body’s natural processes, thus removing components that could lead to immune reactions.
How ‘Pure Fillers’ Address the Longevity Issue
The concept behind ‘pure fillers’ is to reduce or eliminate harsh chemical cross-linking agents like BDDE. This is achieved through:
Advanced HA Formulation: Manufacturers innovate with hyaluronic acid itself, creating longer, more resilient HA chains that resist degradation. This way, they require less or even no chemical cross-linking, enabling the filler to maintain its structure without excessive artificial stabilization.
Subtler Cross-Linking Methods: When cross-linking is necessary, companies use gentler chemical reactions that leave fewer or no detectable residues. This makes the final product more biocompatible.
Focus on Biocompatibility: A ‘purer’ filler mimics the body's natural HA, leading to more predictable breakdown by the body’s hyaluronidase enzymes. This means the filler is more likely to degrade in line with expectations, minimizing prolonged persistence and the risk of migration.
The move toward ‘purer’ formulations aims to create fillers that are not only effective but also ensure natural integration and controlled breakdown over time, reducing issues related to unintended longevity and migration.
Safety of Dermal Fillers: A Crucial Consideration
Overall, dermal fillers are considered very safe when administered by trained and experienced aesthetic professionals. However, like any procedure, there are potential risks and side effects. Common, temporary side effects can include:
Redness
Swelling
Bruising
Tenderness at the injection site
More serious, though rare, complications can occur, such as:
Vascular Occlusion: This occurs when filler is injected into a blood vessel, potentially blocking blood flow. This can lead to tissue damage, scarring, or, in very rare cases, blindness.
Infection: Rarely, an infection might occur at the injection site.
Allergic Reactions: Though uncommon with HA fillers, allergic reactions can happen.
Nodules or Lumps: These can sometimes form under the skin.
Minimizing Risks
To ensure the safest possible outcome, it is essential to:
Choose a qualified and experienced injector.
Have a thorough consultation: Discuss your medical history, allergies, and aesthetic goals with your injector.
Understand the product being used: Ask about the type of filler, its longevity, and its safety profile.
Follow post-treatment instructions: Adhering to aftercare advice can significantly reduce the risk of complications.
Conclusion
Dermal fillers offer a powerful tool for facial rejuvenation, providing both immediate and long-term benefits. By understanding the different types of fillers, their mechanisms of action, longevity, dissolvability, and ongoing advancements in safety—particularly the exciting shift toward ‘purer’ formulations—you can embark on your aesthetic journey with confidence. You'll achieve natural-looking, radiant results while prioritizing safety by choosing a reputable practitioner and an approved product.


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